This year, I decided to finally do something I’ve been writing about for over a decade as a beauty editor: laser hair removal. For nearly 12 years, I’ve waxed almost every part of my body, with regular appointments for bikini, Brazilian, and armpit areas. But that didn’t mean I enjoyed the treatment. Each time, as the hot melted wax was applied to my skin, I braced myself.
The reason I decided to undergo laser treatment was my first waxing treatment after giving birth. I thought going back to waxing would be easy since it was the most physically intense experience of my life. It wasn’t. The anticipation of peeling off the hard wax didn’t magically disappear, and my skin felt more sensitive than usual during the first few waxes postpartum. In other words, it still hurts like hell.
Hyperpigmentation was also a big concern due to hormonal changes. Lasers have long had a reputation for being a dangerous treatment for melanin-rich skin due to the high risk of burns and discoloration. That’s because laser hair removal literally targets melanin. “It works through a process called selective photothermolysis,” he says. Nana BoakyeMD, board-certified dermatologist in Hackensack, New Jersey. This is a fancy way of saying that the melanin within the hair follicle absorbs the laser energy. “That energy is converted into heat, which damages the follicle and prevents it from growing.”
For decades, lasers have been designed to lighten skin, but there are still technicians inexperienced in treating melanin-rich skin. As a Black woman who has dealt with post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation from acne on my face and body, the idea of causing further discoloration through laser treatment has always made me nervous. Nevertheless, I understand that laser hair removal is the gold standard treatment for those who want to remove body hair more permanently. So I decided to take the plunge and needed advice from a board-certified dermatologist to guide me through the weeks-long process. The first thing I zap is my armpits and Brazilian area.
What are the risks of laser hair removal for melanin-rich skin?
Laser hair removal for all skin types comes with risks. It can be especially dangerous if you undergo treatment without the supervision of a board-certified dermatologist. After all, you’re directing a beam of thermal energy at your skin. Dr. Boakye says common side effects include temporary redness and swelling around the hair follicle during treatment and mild discomfort. “Less common complications include blistering, crusting, erosion, and very rarely scarring,” says Dr. Boakye.
For people with melanin-rich skin, hyperpigmentation and burns are among the most common concerns and usually occur when devices are used incorrectly by inexperienced health care providers. “If the laser wavelength, settings, and technique are not appropriate for the patient’s skin tone, the energy will be absorbed into the skin rather than the hair follicles, increasing the risk of damage,” explains Dr. Boakye. “In melanin-rich skin, there is more pigment present in the epidermis. This means the laser’s energy may be absorbed faster than intended.”
Janine DowneyM.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Montclair, N.J., says melanin-rich skin “has larger melanocytes and generally higher baseline activity levels.” She added that these pigment-producing cells “release inflammatory ‘mediators’ faster and more than other cells.” [in lighter skin tones] In response to fever or other trauma. ”
Signs of poor response to laser hair removal appear “immediately” during treatment. “All lasers cause a skin reaction,” Dr. Downey says, pointing to mild irritation. “Pigment changes, such as dramatic darkening rather than temporary redness, are an immediate sign that something is not right.”
Source: Allure – www.allure.com
