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I remember the first time I saw a photo of Cara Delevingne on Tumblr, especially her eyebrows. Glossier’s Boy Brow, the eyebrow that started selling 1,000 (or rather millions) units. Since then, I’ve been following every trend. Delevingne’s full arch, the pencil-thin resurgence of the ’90s, and now, finally, the slow process of regrowing what she’s had all along has begun.
The important thing about eyebrows is that they control everything. They shape your expression, frame your face, and have a huge impact on how cohesive or otherwise you look that day. That’s why it’s important to find the shape that best suits your face rather than following the current trends.
Featured image from Michelle Nash’s interview with Sami Bernstein Spalter.
To figure out how to actually do that, I consulted owner Amanda Robinson. Iris + Waist Lash Company Responsible for Mandy Moore and Molly Buzz’s eyebrows, based in Los Angeles. With over 10 years of experience in the beauty industry, Amanda has built a loyal following in Los Angeles for her highly customized, natural approach to eyelash extensions and brow design. After seeing firsthand the damage and overly uniform results caused by improper application techniques, she founded Iris+West and set out to redefine the space with a focus on eyelash health, restraint, and personalization.
Her advice was simpler than I expected and more helpful than any eyebrow tutorial I’ve ever seen. Fasten the buckle.
Face mapping techniques you need to know
Before you pluck a single hair, Robinson recommends three face-mapping methods to find your ideal brow shape:
- Place the pencil vertically above the corner of your nose. From there, start drawing your eyebrows.
- Angle it diagonally from the hollow of your nose to the outside of your iris. That should be the top of the arch.
- Tilt it from the side of your nose to the corner of your eyes. That’s where the eyebrow ends.
“These three points determine the ideal start, arch, and end,” Robinson says. Whether you’re having your brows shaped professionally or filling them in at home, “think of your top and bottom brow lines like railroad tracks. They should run parallel,” she adds.
work with what you have
Robinson’s philosophy is refreshingly simple. It’s all about stopping fighting your natural brows. “My biggest advice is to use what you have naturally,” she says. “Some people naturally have more arches, while others have straighter or more rounded brows. While you can certainly improve the shape, we find that people feel best when they don’t fight too much with what’s naturally there.”
Regarding the thick vs. thin debate, Robinson makes it clear that shape and arch are more important than thickness. “In general, thicker eyebrows tend to look better on stronger, more prominent features, thinner eyebrows flatter more delicate features, and darker eyebrows tend to give a more youthful look.” But ultimately, “what gives you the most confidence is what looks best on you.”
Common eyebrow mistakes and how to fix them
Even with the best of intentions, eyebrows can go the wrong way. Robinson’s most common cause: “The biggest mistake I see is cutting the top too flat and straight.” Her fix? “Trim your hair one strand at a time, brushing it in the direction you want, and do it slowly. You can always remove more hair, but you can’t grow it back.”
Other mistakes to avoid:
- Use harsh products on your eyebrows – treat them like you would any other part of your face
- Choosing the wrong shade (your eyebrows don’t have to match your hair exactly)
- Expect perfect symmetry – your eyebrows are sisters, not twins
- Skip eyebrow care completely
How to support eyebrow growth
If you’re in regrowth mode, whether it’s from over-tweezing or a long-standing tendency to thin eyebrows, Robinson points to peptide-based serums as a top recommendation. “Peptides condition and strengthen hair follicles and promote healthy growth.” One thing to avoid are prostaglandin analogs. Although these can stimulate growth, Robinson warns that it’s worth using caution when using them. Consult your dermatologist before adding it to your routine.
A pencil is the most precise tool in your brow kit to define, shape, and fill in sparse areas. Robinson recommends using light, hair-like strokes and letting the spoolie do the blending work.
If your brows are naturally full but need shaping, or if you want a brushed-up, lamination-adjacent look without being fussy, gel is the way to go. The clear formula works on all eyebrow colors. Colored ones add a soft fill.
For those who are in regrowth mode, whether it’s over-plucking, thinning hair, or years of following trends, serums work at the follicle level, not the surface. Consistency is what makes them work. These are not instant gratification products.
Source: Camille Styles – camillestyles.com
