Vlisco’s Rise as Top Manufacturer of African Wax Prints

Founded in 1846, Vlisco is a fabric manufacturing giant that has become synonymous with the rise of African wax prints, including its growing popularity around the world. Their fabrics are made using important methods and techniques that blend African originality with Dutch designs, transcending culture and rooted in Indonesian batik. Vlisco’s history is It is well documented on their website And I recently went to research to discover more about the origins and history of Vlisco. Some content by Marten Van Riel, Massachusetts It details key moments in the company’s history. The question I was trying to answer was, “Where did the term “African print” come from? “And then, “Has the Dutch company become a major manufacturer of fabrics that are very popular in Africa?”

Well, after some careful reading and analysis, I have come to some common sense conclusions that form the basis for articles on the origins and history of Vlisco. Vlisco has evolved over 200 years through war, industrial revolution, economic change and internation markets and has become a global brand. By reading this article, you will be immersed in my research and meditation on their unique journeys, cultural significance, and impact on the African economy.

The origin of Vlisco

The company was founded in 1846 in Helmond, the Netherlands. The Dutch textile industry has undergone a period of industrial growth, and in 1852 introduced the production of wax prints using a local wax resistance dyeing technique known as Batik. This technique and the batik fabric made with it were already widely respected in Southeast Asia. Frederick “Fritt” Hendrik Fentinervan Vrisungen (the family of owners based in the Netherlands East Indies or modern Indonesia) first encountered the process and awakened to commercial viability. Eventually, Vlisco began producing its own imitation Batik fabrics in this way and introduced it to the domestic market. From the 1860s to 1883, the Dutch then modernized the process of manipulation and batik making with an emphasis on industrialization, mechanization, and scaling previously difficult and tedious processes.

From 1883 to 1918, Vlisco began expanding its exports to Africa. Mimicking batik fabrics were introduced into the local Indonesian market, but it didn’t work very well. By 1885, demand had declined. In the Indonesian market, these mimicry fabrics were not considered high quality. Because the Dutch import of these fabrics lost market preferences because the habituated printing technology produced manufacturing defects. Since then, two traders – the UK F.&A. Swanzy and Holland HJ Haykens11 played a pivotal role in introducing Dutch wax prints to Africa. Over time, demand continued to increase in post-war Africa, and by the 1950s the continent became a major market for Urisco fabrics. This African market has flourished throughout the era of Africa’s independence and has continued in recent years.

How did the Dutch company do to a major manufacturer of fabrics that are very popular in Africa?

As mentioned in one of my previous posts The origins and history of African printsI said that African wax prints are actually European or Dutch wax prints. It all sums up to market forces, but it is important to consider some of the keys to Vlisco’s success in order to effectively analyze why Dutch company fabrics found so many intakes on the continent.

Industrial innovation. From the 1860s to 1883, Vlisco invested in improved technology. The machine allowed the company to adopt the printing technology of perotin and Javanaise. This has increased the efficiency of the Batik printing process. This means that you can save time, produce more printed fabrics, expand the entire operation, and ultimately sell more to meet the increased demand from the market.

Creative design. After World War I, Vlisco has revamped its design approach by prioritizing clear designs that resonate culturally with the audience. Its first design department was founded in 1918 and hired artists such as Duco Crop (1863-1901). Since then, the complexity of the fabric’s pattern and color combinations has increased, demonstrating how a design-centric approach to innovation has emerged, positioning Dutch textiles as a favourable import for superior design quality.

Customer focus. One of the reasons Vlisco was so successful is African women because it focuses on promoting and empowering customers. To do this properly, you need to know the customer inside out. Most of the marketing campaigns and promotional videos celebrated women from different regions of the continent, which was important to the company’s success. This also started early. By 1934, the import market in Urisco in Africa had increased significantly, prompting Janfentenor Van Vrissingen to make the company’s first official trip to learn and understand the local culture, taste and people’s preferences.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vrziapygeze

Distribution networks and partnerships. Since the 1800s, Dutch have carefully constructed distribution networks across African countries that had been following trade routes during that era. Also, one theory says that early on, they worked with adopted soldiers to take the fabric back to their families as gifts, leading to wider intakes and adoptions in West African countries over the years. Throughout the 1960s, Vlisco also had a trade partnership with prominent sellers, especially Nana Benz, a woman who helped Vlisco’s business in the region, naming the design and creating symbols of status, identity, storytelling and cultural expression. Today, Vlisco Network spans offices in various distribution regions. Traders who sell fabrics, sew a variety of creative garments and bring these fabrics to life. Vlisco currently owns Woodin, Uniwax and Ghana Textiles Printing Company (GTP). Today, Vlisco is a global brand, a variety of luxury retailers in Africa, with e-commerce and online stores thriving.

If the wax print is Dutch, where does the term “African print” come from?

Considering the origins and history of Vlisco, I realized that “African prints” were not clear in any way. Many people believe that the term came from a need for European fabric manufacturers to trick people into buying wax-printed fabrics a few years ago, based on the belief that they are truly Africans. In reality, it could have been just a savvy marketing gimmick. However, it is very important for people to know their history and the origins of their fabrics in order to make informed decisions. Most people who regularly interact with African prints can identify imported prints. To date, in many markets, European or Dutch wax prints have been appreciated more than local indigenous textiles. This simply introduces a culture in which people prefer foreign-made products due to perceived quality. And yes, foreign fabrics are very well made. In my opinion, the history of African fabrics is a reality that should serve as an inspiration to promote the local textile industry.

The impact of Dutch wax printing for the local textile industry in Africa

Before the Dutch introduced wax printing to the continent, Africa already has its own thriving textile industry. This included the creation of fabrics such as tree bark, animal skin, cotton, jute, silk, and raffia palm, and patterns were created using materials such as mud. For example, Burk Cross was widely made in Buganda, Uganda, but fast forward to this day, and is becoming an eradicated art form like most other traditional methods and fabric-making techniques on the continent. Perhaps there could be arguing that domestic demand for wax prints is gradually being replaced by other heritage fabrics such as Ganian Kent, Nigerian Adia, Asoak and Mali Bogolanfini. Nevertheless, I personally love all the fabrics in all forms, both traditional and wax prints. In 2020, an artist named Priya Shah made a good attempt to visually represent all modern fabrics in Africa using the maps shown below. We recommend that you study maps in an effort to expand your knowledge and gain a sound understanding of all African fabrics and textiles.

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