How an arctic Pride in Senja, Norway changed my perspective

Timing is all about Senja, the second largest island in Norway, but still relatively untouched.

Come in the winter, and the only light you see is one that reflects a snow blanket covering any surface or aurora, which is the most lively. Arrived in the island summer (basically July) we don’t find a consistent Mediterranean heat, but it’s relaxing on the beach. Lined with cloud scraping mountains, ersforden beach is one of the island’s hot spots.

Or come in late August like me, and you might just stumble on the locals pride It is one of the world’s only proud events, taking place on top of the Arctic Circle in March. If you take pride in London or Brighton Pride, Senja Pride becomes a culture shock. There is no performance by Mariah Carey or corporate sponsorship gag, but there is a sweet community spirit, and it is a heartwarming reminder of why pride is needed everywhere, but more important in smaller rural areas.

“It’s not always accepted by queer people,” Senja Pride organizer Beete Morgen tells me. She has been engaging her head with a small group of angry locals on social media for the past few days. They are infuriating that the group was awarded 38,000 knocks (less than 3,000 pounds) by the municipality. Senja Pride started in 2023, but the pushback remains. “It’s getting better. That’s one of the reasons we are proud of, to improve it.”

Senja Pride Organizer Beate Moeggen. (Vetle Agledahl/VisitNorway.com)

One of the first pride events above the Arctic, Barents Pride took place in 2017 in Kirkenes along the Norway-Russian border. The groundbreaking event featuring Russian LGBTQ+ activists bans the promotion of “non-traditional sexual relations” in violation of Russia’s anti-LGBTQ+ propaganda law of 2013.

Norway is usually considered one of the world’s most LGBTQ-friendly countries, but like much of Europe, its right-wing party is becoming increasingly popular. Recent national electionsand it is becoming more and more opposed to pride flags in child-friendly environments.

It’s the afternoon before I chat with 52-year-old Moeggen. He drizzles on Saturday mornings, Pride flags and badges will be sold to locals, and grazes will graze rainbow volunteers around the rainbow town square.

Setup for the day is easy. Norway’s major political parties from the entire spectrum are handing out cakes and pens. There are stages where Senja mayor will later give a speech, passing through the quick but powerful finsoon. It rains, but soon passes, giving way to the rainbow, the most convenient timing in the world.

A bit of drizzle didn’t hold back Senja Pride’s revelations.

Around 150 people appear, some demand better health care for trans people, others wear rainbow suits and socks. Some marchers traveled across Norway. I flew from Germany. Two drag queens lead the parade, swinging them around on their shoulders, stomping on them. One Marcher blows up the gay national anthem by pressing the speaker with a wheelbarrow. Dozens of slightly wee-adorable residents line the streets. Visibly, something proudly strange with a Senja doesn’t feel dangerous, but it’s valuable.

Here, the day after pride is not neglecting about hangovers on a sofa buried under a take-out rapper. “We can actually raise a rainbow flag outside the church,” Morgen blows the beams. There will be church services nearby, as led by three priests from 2023. Last year, “It was so moving that people actually cried,” Morgen proudly says. Other community events over the long weekend include stand-up, drug bingo and family-friendly bowling sessions.

Okchonan Mountains in Senja. (Timo Oxseinen)

But everything you need to do at Senja is organized by the land. The day before Senja Pride I built a career along the island government. Scenic route. I passed through the fjord very smoothly, looked like a sheet of glass, and the snow fell into the snow through the mountains, including the famous Okchonan and Segura mountains, which left me under a loose attack. My eyes were bustling when I scanned the greenery for the reindeer (I finally found one on my way back to Tromso airport), the Fjords of Orca (winter is the best time for whale watching), the summit of Senja The legendary troll (There’s no such luck).

The moment that stood out in my highlight was when Reel kayaked out of the small village of Ston Grand Sadet in the Norwegian Sea and spotted a leaps of jellyfish chasing an eagle pirouette between the boat and the island. “This is Norway! This is what this should be,” cried Rune, my instructor, as the animals cleaned around us. It feels like I’m closest to the earth in its most raw form.

For a long time, Senja has been rather untouched, but has not escaped the obsession of tourists caused by Tiktok due to Tiktok on “hidden gems.” Tourism has reached an all-time high every year since 2020. It is currently the fifth largest industry (fishing is of course the first).

Kayak in the Norwegian Sea off Senja Island. (Vetle Agledahl/VisitNorway.com)

The island with about 7,000 residents and about 15,000 people from Senja Municipality, and the influx of over 120,000 mountain adventurers in 2024 was welcome, but nervous. In some areas, locals believe tourism is on the rise. In others, as long as the municipal infrastructure catches up, it is invited with open arms. At the moment, there are few restaurants and hotels, but that very It changes slowly.

What’s more, despite the Norwegian waffles and Senja hand brigali beer I guzzled, you don’t necessarily come to Senja for the food or hotel. You’re coming FriluftslivThe Norwegian concept essentially means a deep connection between “living in free air” and nature. You head to the Senja in the right outdoors and do a rainbow if it’s a time of sun, snow, or pride.