Full evening dress (also known as “white tie”) is the most formal dress code. generally It’s only worn at royal ceremonies and balls. But in the United States, some weddings are increasingly choosing to make the extravagant gesture of dressing up, so it’s best to be prepared. Simon Goldman, fashion designer and influencer Simon Goldbreaking down the elements of the perfect white tie ensemble.
“If the invitation says ‘white tie’, it sets out very specific standards for the tailcoat, dictating the required cut and accessories and it can only be made by a very experienced tailor and nothing else can be used,” explains Steve Norsch, US managing director. Cad and Dandy.
Photo: Mitchell Vito Kherson
White Thailand
- A black barathea tailcoat, fitted to the body with black silk trim, worn unbuttoned at the front and cut slightly downwards at the sides to peak just below the waist. The tailcoat itself falls behind the knees and is cut to fit closely to the torso at the back.
- The white Marcella waistcoat is traditionally low cut with a deep V, three buttons at the front and narrow, square or rounded lapels. The front of the coat should be cut so that the lower corners of the waistcoat are always hidden.
- Unlike tuxedo (black tie) trousers, white tie trousers have a double stripe on the outside seam, are often made with single or double pleats turned inwards and a fishtail back, are high-waisted so they can be worn with suspenders, and have no turned-up hems.
- A full evening dress shirt with a wing collar and a Marcella bib front, worn with shirt studs instead of buttons and double or single cuffs with cufflinks.
- A matching white Marcella bow tie (butterfly or bat wing shaped) must be placed in front of the collar wings, never behind, and always hand tied.
- For footwear, wear formal low cut pumps in black calf or patent leather with a bow, paired with plain black silk calf length stockings.
- Traditionally, a black top hat is the correct head covering.
photograph: Cad and Dandy
Source: Equally Wed – LGBTQ+ Wedding Magazine and Wedding Vendor Directory – equallywed.com