Two Curl Experts Explain How To Know Your Unique Curl Type

Four years ago, I underwent one of the biggest changes of my life. In October 2020, I underwent the ‘big chop’: trimming my chemically altered hair to the root for my natural texture to make a triumphant return. It prompted a deep edit of the hair products and tools I used daily to preserve the health of my tight coils. It was both the scariest and most exciting thing I had done for myself in a while. Having curly hair is perhaps one of the most understood experiences, both by those who possess it and for those who don’t.

In truth, I wouldn’t have known where to begin my natural hair journey if not for the guidance of trusted hair stylists who’ve dedicated their time and resources to pointing my newly curly head in the right direction. Below, curl specialist and founder of Silke London Maria Sotiriou as well as hair stylist Sophie Gutterman walk me through hairstylist Andre Walker’s popular curl typing system, share the perfect curly hair routine for your needs, and their recommendations for the best haircare and styling products designed to enhance your curls. In short, they’ve got you covered whether you’re looking to update your trustworthy lineup of curly hair products or have yet to be introduced to your hair texture.

(Image credit: Original graphic by Audrey Hedlund)

The Different Curl Types

Curly hair is an umbrella term generally used to describe hair with tighter textures, which in turn, describes the pattern of individual hair strands. The texture of each is categorized as being fine, medium, or course. “Each category is determined by the circumference of individual strands,” Sotiriou explains. Additionally, the term ‘hair type’ is applied to how we expect the hair to act. “1abc hair is straight hair and will probably be difficult to style and hold a curl. Whereas 4c type hair will be coily but the texture can be fine and delicate even though you might not think it is,” she says.

If you’re unsure of where your strands fall on the spectrum, you’re in luck: Sotiriou tells us there’s a quick trick to revealing the nature of your hair. “The easiest way to determine curl pattern is by looking to see if the curl rotates round and back to sit just below the curl above, that would probably be coily hair,” Sotiriou says. “If the hair curls around but drops lower when moving into the next curl that is probably curly hair. Finally, if the hair doesn’t curl back around but drops into a bend, that is wavy hair.”

According to Gutterman, curl type and texture can also undergo major change. “[Hair] can be curly and the texture over time can get straight or be different from heat damage, chemical or even taking hormonal supplements,” she explains. It’s also helpful to know if your curls are high or low porosity, since water and product can enter the hair but also leave it easily. “Hair porosity will play a big role in how much product you need. Depending on how well your hair retains water you may have to use a more hydrating leave in,” says Gutterman.

Now that you know what to pay attention to, keep scrolling for an introduction to the different curl types.

Type 2 (Wavy Hair)

(Image credit: Original graphic by Audrey Hedlund)

Type 2 curls range from fine to course textures, are bendable, hold their shape, and grow in an s-pattern from the scalp. To extend the longevity of styles with type 2 curls and reduce the chance of flattening, try diffusing your curls for maximum volume.

2A: This curl type has a fine texture that can easily be straightened. It also has a tendency to lack volume at the root. To give the hair more volume and fullness, consider using light mousse to add some fullness at the base and pump up the volume without weighing down your strands.

2B: Lying flat at the crown with defined s-shape waves starting from mid-length, the strands of this hair type have a thicker diameter than 2a. To play up your natural surer waves, try using a sea salt texturizing mist.

2C: Because the 2c curl type features s-bends that are well-defined at the roots and thick, they’re susceptible to frizzing. To keep your curls well-maintained and defined, use a non-lathering, sulfate-free co-wash between wash days that won’t strip natural oils and moisture away. Layering styling creams with mousse will lock in moisture and add hydration.

Type 3 (Curly Hair)

(Image credit: Original graphic by Audrey Hedlund)

Type 3 curls range from shiny loose, s-pattern curls to tight corkscrew-shaped curls that form tight ringlets. The secret to maintaining the health of these strands is to use products that moisturize and define while combating halo frizz. You may also see some success layering products (mousse and styling cream) for extended wear time.

3A: This hair tend to be shiny and have large, loose curls. It’s also one of the most fragile curl types; as any friction can create frizz. Try scrunching a curl-enhancing product into damp hair to emphasize its texture and spritz with a lightweight curl refresher.

3B: Strands with a 3b curl type come in the form of springy, tight ringlets. This texture can great dry, so make sure you have curl gels on hand formulated with humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe vera to help attract moisture, offer definition, and deter frizz.

3C: This curl type is defined by densely packed, high volume corkscrew curls that are impacted by humidity; resulting in frizz. To stop your curls from drying out, use sulfate-free, creamy cleansers followed by mousse and styling cream while your hair is still wet.

Type 4 (Coily Hair)

(Image credit: Original graphic by Audrey Hedlund)

Type 4 curl types (also commonly referred to as kinky or Afro-textured) feature tight, small curls that are naturally dry and can range from fine to course. They form tight, small z-shaped strands at the scalp and often experience shrinkage without help from products formulated to lengthen and define the hair. No matter how these curls are styled, moisture is their best friend!

4A: If someone has 4a curls, it means the hair has a visible curl pattern with springy, densely packed, s-shaped coils. Try pairing a curl cream with leave-in moisturizer and incorporate a scalp massager in your haircare routine to detox the scalp while reducing buildup.

4B: This densely packed curl type has sharp, z-shaped angles instead of coils that can be shaped and styled in many ways. Because it’s prone to dryness, combine priming and moisture sprays with leave-in conditioners with hydrating curl creams in-between washes.

4C: The 4c has a similar tight, zigzag pattern as 4B curls, but its less defined and sometimes indiscernible to the eye. This curl type also experiences more shrinkage than any other curl types. Avoid using products using sulfates that strip the hair of moisture, instead opting for natural oils like argan, shea butter, and coconut oil in leave-in conditioners and creams to keep the hair moisturized.

Building a Curly Hair Routine

For anyone who’s just beginning to learn about their curls, consider scaling back on hair styling products and heat styling to focus solely on creating a hair care routine built around the wellness of your hair. This can be done by trimming your strands every 10-12 weeks, using pre-wash oiling treatments, hydrating/repairing products, leave-in conditioning creams, heat protection, and sleep protection. “All your hard work is lost unless you use nighttime hair protection to protect not only your hair, but also all the products you’ve applied to your hair from being lost to the abrasive fabrics of your pillowcase,” Sotiriou says of the latter.

Unsure of where to start on your curly hair journey? Below, Sotiriou shares four steps you can take to promote healthy, thriving curls through hydration, styling, and maintenance (plus, a few of the products she recommends adding to your natural haircare lineup for the best possibly results). She likes to call her go-to Curly Girl Routine the “Lock in–Ease Out–Maintain” method.

1. Lock In (Hydrate) – Wash the scalp with a moisturizing, protein-rich shampoo that will bring your hair to a level so that you will need far fewer styling products. Follow with hair mask or conditioner and distribute product through the hair with a wide tooth comb or a wet brush, rinse, squeeze out excess water and apply a leave-in conditioner.
2. Ease Out (Cast and Release Curls) – Apply curl mousse, styling cream, or styling gel before leaving the hair to dry and set into curls. Once set, rub oil serum into the palms of your hands, tip your head upside down and squeeze the serum into the mid-lengths and ends of the hair.
3. Maintain (Make Curls Last) – Extend your curly style by protecting it overnight with a silk hair wrap since sleeping on curls without it will mean your curls will frizz and dehydrate. You’ll also want to avoid over washing!

Finally, shop more expert-approved product favorites for all curly hair types.

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