Glenn Martens Makes His RTW Debut at Maison Margiela in Paris

Completely performed to the sound of a 61-piece children’s orchestra (all of which were wearing a dramatically larger and larger Maison Margiela tuxedo) incomplete Symphony No. 40 and rendition of Beethoven’s Moonlight Sonata, Glen Martens debuted his first coed-edition collection for a Belgian fashion house during Paris Fashion Week. The presentation arrived just three months after the former Diesel Creative Director showed off Marguilla’s first craftsman (also known as) collection in July. The collection wasn’t for the faint of heart, but it didn’t seem like it would be readily digested with a brand like this. It’s a couture offering that makes you think and you send chills to your spine once do.

However, in the spring/summer of 2026, Martens took a simpler approach and continued on several themes from his couture debut, but he does them in a more liberated bag, and even practical fashion (see Margiera-made basics such as trench coats, slip dresses, and leather jackets). He began the show with a wearable silhouette made of denim and leather. All of these were accented with four-tier mouthpieces that resemble the brand’s Signature Non logo. Classic Margiela Futures has returned, including the Margiela Futures, a high-top sneaker that has been seen for the 2026 modern update, and Tabi’s nails, which were first seen in the Artisan 2025 collection in 2025, but now futuristic Perselgas wedge heels, making their RTW debut. A new version of the box bag will soon be available. With its soft, leaning-down appearance, there’s no doubt that the classic will be spring.

About the first details of Martens Maison Margiela ready-made collection, continue scrolling.

Works for everyone

Like music performances, there were moments of calm tranquility through the designer’s obedience this season, with a bigger, more exciting component. According to the press release, “real life concepts and proposals” were the main focus. The tailoring was presented in several different ways, with denim and more classic wool. White button-down shirt styled The jeans and boots were worn in leather motorcycle jackets with slip dresses with small lace details. For the first 25 or so look, the muted color palette was prioritized and there was a sudden switch. As the collection slowly approached the crescendo, vibrant colors and patterns began to appear in Martens models. The uneven hemed dress was printed in a collision floral pattern designed to look like 16th century wallpaper (the concept first introduced in the F/W 25 artisan collection). The entire collection had moments when I went from the understated basics to the Marguilla method.

Marghira mouthpiece

The orchestra conductor wore the Maison Marguilla suits decorated the upper back with the home’s signature four-stitched “logo.” Whether it’s a sweater or a jacket, we usually see the symbol in the same place: the back of the neck. However, for the S/S 26 it was seen in the form of a mouthpiece that looked almost surgically. According to Shaw’s notes, they were used to give the model “uniformity of representation” to continue the long-standing emphasis on Maison Marguilla’s anonymity.

With a leaning bag

When a new bag arrives at a Belgian home, it is made. A new take on box bags, The leaning shoulder bag has sharp edges that give it a unique look. Better yet, it features a silver decorative metal trim with a brush, giving the bag an antique charm in the form of today’s modern handbags. According to show notes, the box bag can be instantly clutched by pushing in the strap inside.

Kim and Kylie take the front row

It was a great day for a celebrity sighting in Paris on Saturday. Meghan Markle makes her debut at Paris Fashion Week in Balenciaga, with Ina Garten and her Kelly reuniting with Hermes front row, Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner at Maison Marguilla. Kardashian debuted a new Pixie Cut at Alaïa earlier that day, wearing a gray trench coat, a collar necklace and PVC heeled leather boots. Her sister’s appearance was a little calmer, wearing a thin camisole and matching tights made of paper (!) and placed in a sharp Tabi wedge.