Balmain Fall/Winter 2025 Show Recap: See All the Details

Balmain’s Fall 2025 collection shows a fascinating departure from the brand’s traditional luxury, embracing a more relaxed and refined aesthetic. Under the creative direction of Olivier Rousting, the collection moves away from the iconic metallic and structured home tailoring, showing off an elegant sense of comfort and refinement. “This show is the beginning of a new era that we are all building together,” says the designer. I wrote it on Instagram Continue to the runway. Cozy knitwear, liquid drapes and luxurious wool jersey dress dominated the runway, offering comfort and understated luxury. The soft, organic texture of the collection contrasted with the bold and refined leather elements, from streamlined trousers to peplum jackets.

The palette shift was equally impressive, with cool grey and muted tones replacing the signature gold and gem tones of past seasons. This refined colour scheme created a sense of overall modernity and restraint while maintaining the inherent sense of luxury to the brand. Accessories also play an important role, with bold zebra prints and sculpted shoes adding a contemporary edge to the collection.

This season, Balmain will redefine that identity, mixing comfort with high fashion in a way that gives you both fresh and timeless sensations. By adopting new textures, forms and tones, Balmain is moving in an exciting new direction. This speaks to the broader modern elegance without sacrificing the boldness and craftsmanship that has always defined the brand.

Peplum is back

Those who love or hate them, Balmain says Peplum will stay here. The collection featured a flared silhouette of a skirt and top that seemed to stick out from the hips, a typical shape of a once popular style in the mid-2010s. While business casual may be slowly increasing for the club, the Balmain team is taking it a step further and insisting that affirming Peplum will certainly continue.

Goodbye, hat. Hello, Food.

In stark contrast to minimalist designers who choose pillbox hats this season (the clothing and kite both featured structured staples), Balmain chose a soft, soft foot with muscles. This was undoubtedly a nod to the sensual ’80s look of founder Pierre Balmain and the model of the time, Grace Jones, a friend of the Maison.

A colour story of trust funds

in Interview with Trendy RunwayRousting shared that this was the first time he had used grey melange in his collection. He also spoke about how to use soft, luxurious materials like cashmere to truly bring out the cozy feeling he is aiming for. These warm textures and subtle colour mixes helped to create a high and comforting atmosphere throughout the collection, giving a sense of both luxury and intimacy. Like many other homes, this shift marks the departure of the tone into the realm of thoughtful minimalism (quiet luxury, who?).

au revoir, heel

The age of towering stilettos is over. This season, it’s about comfort with all high fashion dosages. Even with cozy knits, oversized sweaters and wrapped shawls that look warm and snug, footwear still steals the spotlight. Whether it’s a structured architectural design or an edgy, chic boot feel, these shoes aren’t just functional. They are an important part of the entire ensemble, and their comfort and style prove that you can walk hand in hand.

Unassuming beauty

Just as the clothing was a typical starting point from Balmain, another effort to rebrand came in the form of the beauty of the runway chosen for the collection. As Balmain’s women are shifting to those who think that more relaxed and cozy lifestyles, minimalist hair and makeup are taking a central stage. In theory, red lips and the beat of the face to God are always a great idea, but the first modern woman in skincare is more likely to embrace her natural beauty. Slightly flushed cheeks, naturally textured hair, and skin-like makeup finishes were all + choices.