How ultra-traditional tweed found a new fanbase

Once synonymous with nobility, this thoroughly British winter favorite is now more in demand than ever. It is “timeless, trendless, and generally self-cleaning.”

Do you have clothes from 40 years ago in your wardrobe? If so, is it still good enough to wear today, both in terms of style and quality? For King Charles, the answer is a resounding “yes.” The monarch has been wearing the same double-breasted coat since the 1980s. What is the reason for longevity? Made of tweed.

Tweed is a tightly woven wool fabric traditionally made in a plain weave, herringbone, or houndstooth pattern, making it a popular winter material for its natural insulation properties. And this season, tweed is everywhere, from luxury brands like Chloe and Margaret Howell to high street brands like Marks & Spencer.

However, King Charles’ preference for tweed was likely a result of tweed’s timeless and sustainable credentials. Since 2008, he has been a patron and founder. wool campaignis a global initiative run by a coalition of industry associations to support and grow the wool industry in the wake of the rise of synthetic fibres. Much of my work focuses on captivating consumers through fashion and interiors.

“Tweed is a 100% natural, renewable and biodegradable fabric that minimizes the environmental impact of its production,” says Savile Row tailor Anderson, who created King Charles’ double-breasted tweed coat. Martin Crawford, a consultant at & Shepherd, said: “All tweed manufacturers adhere to strict guidelines and actively promote their environmentally friendly certifications.”

Crawford describes tweed as “the original cottage industry” and attributes its longevity and popularity to its adaptations over the past 200 years. Native to Scotland and IrelandTweed began as a practical and functional fabric to protect against the cold, and evolved into a synonym for British aristocracy and country life, with shooting and hacking jackets being adopted by the upper classes in the 19th century. Luxury fashion labels were responsible for its modern revival. Led by Chanel in the 1950s. The label’s iconic tweed jacket remains one of the most popular and copied items in the fashion industry today.

Then, in 1976, a British designer Vivienne Westwood works with Harris Tweed Hebrides for the first time – on the Isle of Lewis in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides – to create bondage pants. Ten years later, she created the Fall/Winter 1987 Harris Tweed collection. The two brands have continued to collaborate ever since. In November 2023, Dior Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri visited the Harris Tweed factory to create a line of bespoke fabrics that will be a key part of the Cruise 2025 collection. Drummond Castle in June. The collection was inspired by Mary Queen of Scots and brought together artisans from across the Scottish textile industry to showcase local craftsmanship.

“Over the past 15 years, our industry has seen a particularly strong interest in traditional designs and patterns,” says Ruth Masson, sales and marketing manager at the company. harris tweed The Hebrides told the BBC. “From luxury goods to the high street, consumers seem more interested than ever in the stories of the products they buy. Our artisanal fabrics and their unique production process allow us to create We are now able to reach a wider range of customers by collaborating with them.” ”

Its reach can sometimes be unexpected. The annual event takes place in April. tweed run A cycling event was held in London as riders donned their finest clothing and embarked on a 21.5-mile route around the capital. fair isle knitweartweed suit and bow tie. Now a worldwide event, cyclists officially stop for tea along the way.

The name ‘Harris Tweed’ is protected by law under the Harris Tweed Act 1993 and only fabrics produced by hand in the Outer Hebrides can bear the famous Orb label. Handwoven from 100% British farm wool and processed in the UK. Masson advises consumers to first look at the composition of the fabric when purchasing clothing labeled as “tweed.”

“Not all tweed is created equal,” she says. “There are huge differences in quality, textile sourcing and production processes that can impact sustainability. Ultimately, brands that are committed to sustainability offer certification, provide transparency into their production processes, and Made from natural, renewable materials. Some tweeds may incorporate cheaper synthetic fibers, which do not offer the same environmental benefits. ”

Another thing that makes tweed more sustainable than other fabrics is its durability. The tighter the weave, the more durable it will be, says Rebecca Early, a professor at the University of the Arts London who studies the future of circular designs. “If there is any damage or moth damage, it is easy to fix and the pattern hides the wear. Also, wool has natural anti-bacterial properties, which makes tweed garments easier to repair. You can dry it outside. In fact, avoid dry cleaning the tweed as it will lose some of its texture.”

Early explains that many tweed products are lined and have a structure that adds durability while protecting your skin from scratchy textures. “Tweed is an indigenous fabric, and the palette of natural dyes often reflects the region and landscape from which it comes. I can always find Irish tweed,” he says in the summer of the past 20 years. She said, having spent time in Kerry. ,Ireland.

Just like Harris Tweed. donegal tweed – Made in County Donegal, north-west Ireland – for centuries. Both Irish and Scottish tweeds weigh about the same at 15/16 ounces, but the main difference between them is that Donegal is machine-woven and its random color flecks are its distinctive trademark. says Crawford.

“One of my favorite pieces of clothing is my Alice Temperley tweed suit, which I’ve worn for years,” Early says. “It’s a shame that it doesn’t suit me anymore, but I keep wearing it because it comes back on sale. Tweed is timeless and timeless.”

Early is right. Fashion rental platform Hurr has seen a 110% increase in the number of tweed items being rented since September. “We’ve definitely seen an increase in searches for tweed recently, as well as more textured materials reflecting the current preppy country trend,” says Sophie Devlin, fashion director at Hurr . “The influx focused on red as well as more classic black and white, and tweed products from Nadine Merabi and Monsando were a huge hit as party wear.”

Tweed’s sustainable properties mean it is preferred by modern fashion brands who take environmental, social and ethical impacts into account in their collections. Brand “Baukjen” from London B Corp CertifiedAccording to the company, its tweed category has grown by 40% compared to last year’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection, and its brown check tweed coat is one of this season’s best sellers.

“With its durability and timeless appeal, tweed meets consumer demand for stylish investment pieces,” says Baugen Design Director Natalie Grant. Baujen coats may not appeal to purists as they are made from a blend of recycled wool, cotton and polyester, but this reinvention of the fabric is still going strong 200 years later. It shows that there is.

Anderson & Shepherd still makes ‘shooting suits’ in heavier tweeds, but there is now a growing demand in the UK for lighter 12/13oz tweeds such as Shetland, which can be worn all year round except in summer. I am. “This cloth weight is [the jackets] You can also pair it with regular flannel pants for a timeless look. ” Crawford said. “But they are more likely to be worn on the weekends with chinos or jeans.”

Perhaps the best barometer of Tweed’s direction is its celebrity fans. King Charles isn’t the only royal who favors tweed. The Princess of Wales is a fan of Harris Tweed and has her favorites too Cobalt Blue 90s Chanel Tweed Jacket She regularly wears it alongside Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna. Recently, US models also Gigi Hadid I have become a fan of Scottish weaving. Perhaps it’s a sign that tweed has truly transcended borders and generations.