FAQ
What is kojic acid and what does it do?
According to Dr. Graf, kojic acid is a substance derived from fungi, or mushrooms. It is best known for its skin-lightening properties because it acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor (as we mentioned earlier, it interferes with and slows down the pigment production process, resulting in less pigment and, as a result, a more even skin tone). Unlike salicylic acid, for example, its primary function in the skin does not include exfoliation.
“Tyrosinase inhibitors are often used in skin care products because of their ability to improve age spots and uneven skin tone,” says Dr Woolley-Lloyd. Also, kojic acid can be used in combination with other tyrosinase inhibitors such as vitamin C, licorice extract, and tranexamic acid, as these are most effective when used in groups. (A benefit of vitamin C is that it also acts as an antioxidant, neutralizing free radicals that can harm your health. more It will change color if left unattended. )
It can also be used in conjunction with niacinamide as a multi-pronged approach is effective against acne scars, sun spots and hyperpigmentation. More specifically, niacinamide has another function: it inhibits the movement of melanosomes (bundles of pigment) to the skin’s surface to even out skin tone. Because it is an active ingredient, it can be used in high concentrations, so it is usually included in facial serums and treatments instead of toners and cleansers.
According to Dr. Shirazi, the sweet spot for kojic acid in serums is 1-2%. “For kojic acid to be really effective, it must be in the first five ingredients listed on the bottle,” she says.
What are the potential side effects of kojic acid?
Although kojic acid is unlikely to have side effects at the levels found in commercial products, Dr. Graf says it can cause “skin irritation, redness, and dryness, especially when used in high concentrations or for long periods of time.” So if you know you have sensitive skin, consider doing a patch test or taking a step-by-step approach (using it twice a week and gradually improving your symptoms from there).
And while using sunscreen should be a habit, especially if you’re dealing with discoloration, “it can also increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, so it’s a good idea to always wear sunscreen while using it,” she says.
How long does it take for kojic acid to work?
It varies from person to person, but “some people see an improvement in their skin tone and a reduction in age spots within four to six weeks with continued use,” says Dr. Graf. Again, this assumes you’re wearing sunscreen. This is because exposure to sunlight can negate the effects of kojic acid. And severe hyperpigmentation may take longer for the color to fade, she warns, up to three months or more.
What should not be used with kojic acid?
When using kojic acid, it is important to be aware of the ingredients in other formulas you are using. According to Dobos, skin care products with very low pH, such as those containing AHAs and BHAs, can cause irritation and dryness when combined with kojic acid.
Dr. Greenfield also advises against using strong acids or prescription retinoids with kojic acid, as they can further irritate the skin. To minimize the risk of side effects, Dovos recommends performing a patch test before introducing kojic acid into your daily life. Also, if you use retinoids regularly, alternate between the two. Retinol one night and kojic acid the other night.
meet an expert
- Azadeh Shirazi Doctor, Board Certified Dermatologist in La Jolla, California
- heather woolly lloydMD, board-certified dermatologist in Miami, Florida
- Janet GraffMD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, NY
- nicole leeMD, board-certified dermatologist in Garden City, NY
- Reshmi kapoorMD, board-certified dermatologist in New York City
How to test and review products
when allure When you test a product, our editors examine it from all angles to best serve you. We check ingredients, scrutinize brand claims and, when appropriate, research peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing every product included in every review, we rely on experts in fields such as dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine to help vet ingredients and formulations.
For our list of the best kojic acid products, we considered each product’s performance across five key categories: product ingredients and effectiveness, packaging, scent, texture, and product experience. All products have been judged outstanding in each category by our editorial team of in-house writers, editors, and contributors, with special consideration by board-certified dermatologists. For more information about our reporting and testing process, please visit our complete review process and methodology page.
Our staff and testers
when allure Once we test a product, our editors look at it from all angles to ensure we can best serve you. We check ingredients, scrutinize brand claims and, when appropriate, research peer-reviewed scientific and medical studies. In addition to testing every product included in each review, we rely on experts in fields such as dermatology, cosmetic chemistry, and medicine to help vet ingredients and formulations.
For our list of the best kojic acid products, we considered each product’s performance across five key categories: product ingredients and effectiveness, packaging, scent, texture, and product experience. All products have been judged outstanding in each category by our editorial team of in-house writers, editors, and contributors, in addition to special consideration by dermatologists. For more information about our reporting and testing process, please visit our complete review process and methodology page.
Source: Allure – www.allure.com
